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MICKEYMEANIE
November 13th, 2009, 04:27 AM
My daughters car needs brake pads (assuming that's all it needs)... it's a 2002 Buick Regal.

I'm trying to decide if it's worth it to do this myself or take it to Brake's Plus, or the like, where they CLAIM $79 for doing the front OR rear brakes. I figure the pads can't cost much, but I'm not sure if I can offset the labor vs. my time doing it. It's been a LOOOONG time since I did brakes on a car and the cars I've done them on were a '68 VW Beetle and a '75 Cutlass...

Are there any special tools needed to do this these days?

AR616
November 13th, 2009, 07:20 AM
the brakes are not hard at all-but i wouldnt take it to a $79 brake job place. They
will turn the rotors not matter how thin they already are-that will led to warpage
real quick.

imo, your best bet is go to oreillys or autozone and buy new rotors and pads.
you probably can do it yourself for around $79 and have brand new parts.

p.s. remember if your working on rear disc brakes, the caliper piston screws in and the
front press.

andy

MICKEYMEANIE
November 13th, 2009, 07:28 AM
Thanks Andy! I was just doing a little research and found exactly what you are talking about with the rear caliper piston! Good thing you mentioned it and I found it out there because that would have made me nuts trying to figure out how to compress the piston!!

It's been so long since I've done a brake job I wasn't sure if I wanted to tackle this or not... I'd rather be riding... but this needs to get done first and I hate paying to have this type of thing done if I can do it myself.

Any trick to removing the rotors?

AR616
November 13th, 2009, 07:32 AM
no tricks on removing rotors-they just slide on over the studs.
You may have to hit them with a hammer due to center hub
being seized from corrosion.

andy

MICKEYMEANIE
November 13th, 2009, 07:40 AM
The car has about 80K miles on it... would you suggest replacing front and rear rotors, or just the front?

Any suggestions on brake pads? semi-metallic, etc...

AR616
November 13th, 2009, 07:52 AM
man, i would probably do them all why your at it. The rears will usually last twice
as long as the fronts.

i would replace pads and rotors on both ends and be done with it for
a long time.

i would buy the ceramic or organic pads, the semi-metallic will chew up the
rotors faster. The ceramic pads are more expensive but stop better and
will be less noisy.

holler if you need some help

andy
817-946-7277

MICKEYMEANIE
November 13th, 2009, 08:02 AM
Good deal, Thanks Andy...

One last stupid question... I'm looking up the parts online and it's hard to tell if the rotors and/or pads come in pairs or not. I suspect the rotors probably don't, but would think the pads would (set of 4 to do both driver and passenger sides of front or rear). Any idea?

Thanks for offering your #... hopefully I won't have to call you!! :wink:

ktm300hater
November 13th, 2009, 08:19 AM
Andy what are your credentials...we wanna see that certificate...lmao

AR616
November 13th, 2009, 08:24 AM
rotors are singles-pads are a full set.


bobby, i am ASE m(machinist) certified. i can remove pebbles from you fuel
injectors and i have been in this business for 67 years!!

andy

MICKEYMEANIE
November 13th, 2009, 08:31 AM
Thanks!!

Looks like about $190 w/tax for all the parts I need at Autozone... 2 front rotors (49.98 ), 2 rear rotors (51.98 ), front pads (32.99), rear pads (21.99), front disc hardware kit (8.99), and rear disc hardware kit (8.99) . Am I missing anything?

I'll need to buy some jackstands as well... I got rid of the ones I had when I sold my '79 VW Bug Conv... I swore off working on cars anymore after that project... (sorry, just thinking out loud now... :lol: )

Dang, I bet that would likely equate to about $800 at a brake shop!

AR616
November 13th, 2009, 08:50 AM
sounds like you got it covered. You may want to get some
anti squeal for the back of the pads. And you may need to
buy a big torx socket for the front caliper stands-i think its a
t60-autozone will know exactly what size-

$190 isnt bad for a four wheel brake job with everything new!

MICKEYMEANIE
November 13th, 2009, 09:05 AM
I've got a set of Torx Bit sockets (goes back to the VW days), I'll check to make sure I have the right size...

Thanks for the advice/help Andy!

rwhite
November 13th, 2009, 09:32 AM
rotors are singles-pads are a full set.


bobby, i am ASE m(machinist) certified. i can remove pebbles from you fuel
injectors and i have been in this business for 67 years!!

andy WANNA COMPARE CAR CAMP CREDENTIALS?

AR616
November 13th, 2009, 10:04 AM
sure richard! anytime!....

rwhite
November 13th, 2009, 10:28 AM
POST EM UP BIAACH!!!!!!

AR616
November 13th, 2009, 10:32 AM
sorry big rich, you win! im just a liar like a bunch of others on here.

i work at a mexican restaurant making salsa. i dont know shit!

sorry to waste your time.......

andy

justme168
November 13th, 2009, 10:39 AM
this week just did L1 T1 T2 T3 T4 L6 but i am not a M1 ,M2,M3 so cant do any pebbles in injectors

MICKEYMEANIE
November 13th, 2009, 10:55 AM
Crap, Andy, did you forget to tell me I need to be certified to perform this task???? WTH? It probably won't pass inspection either! :x Great, just great...

justme168
November 13th, 2009, 10:58 AM
just tell them u got your m certified i think its good for all motorcycles ,,cars,trucks,,planes ,boats ,and trains

rwhite
November 13th, 2009, 11:44 AM
I KNOW SOME STUFF ABOUT CARS! JUS SAYN!!!!!!

rwhite
November 13th, 2009, 03:06 PM
COME OUT COME OUT WHEREEVER YOU ARE ANDY! OR ARE YOU TIED UP PUTTING MERGE STICKERS ON YOUR VAN?

AR616
November 13th, 2009, 03:21 PM
my van appears to be a ford, but really on the inside its a chevy-if i displayed chevy bowties, ford will
void my contract with them-----------i chevy is way better than a ford but since im under contract
with ford for my racing, then ford gets the credit!....

hey rich, when you leave tonight-meet me and fullsize at hooters at 1-20 and green oaks, i will
supply you with a pitcher of beer-it will say coors light on the outside of the pitcher but it will
really be full of bud light-bud light is better, but coors light sells more so coors light gets the
advertisement!

andy

rwhite
November 13th, 2009, 03:22 PM
my van appears to be a ford, but really on the inside its a chevy-if i displayed chevy bowties, ford will
void my contract with them-----------i chevy is way better than a ford but since im under contract
with ford for my racing, then ford gets the credit!....

hey rich, when you leave tonight-meet me and fullsize at hooters at 1-20 and green oaks, i will
supply you with a pitcher of beer-it will say coors light on the outside of the pitcher but it will
really be full of bud light-bud light is better, but coors light sells more so coors light gets the
advertisement!

andy I DONT CARE WHAT KIND OF BEER IT IS IF YOUR BUYING, 1 PITCHER JUST GOING TO PISS ME OFF.

AR616
November 13th, 2009, 03:24 PM
hooters-7:00-

MICKEYMEANIE
November 14th, 2009, 01:06 PM
The Buick is officially my BEOTCH!! Brakes are done and work great... Rotated the tires while I was at it...

Thanks for the help/advice Andy!